A Return To Traditional Soju

When most people think of soju, it’s likely the green bottles that come to mind. This category of soju dominates the market at a whopping 90% and is characterized by its neutral and slightly sweet taste. Green bottle soju is quickly becoming one of the most consumed beverages in the world today with the average adult in Korea consuming on average 53 bottles of soju per year. Despite green bottle soju’s popularity, the reality is that it is quite a contemporary style and not anything like the soju you would find in Korea prior to the 1900’s.

When comparing green bottle and traditionally made soju, the differences are stark. For starters, the majority of green bottle soju is made with a grain neutral spirit or spirits made from processed tapioca or sweet potato. In addition, these base spirits are diluted and adjusted with artificial sweeteners, citric acid, and flavoring agents. The quality of these ingredients aside, green bottle soju represents an even deeper departure from traditional methodology - the exclusion of nuruk, the traditional and essential fermentation starter that defines Korean alcohol production. 

So what exactly is traditional soju? How did we end up with the green bottle? And how does our latest release, Hana Soju 60, fit into the history and legacy of this drink?

What is Soju?

Soju is a storied drink that follows the history of Korea itself. Up until the end of Goryeo dynasty, Korean brewing methodology was limited to fermented styles including takju, yakju, and makgeolli to name a few. In the 13th century, with the introduction of distillation techniques from the Middle East and Mongolia, soju production began to take off. For over 500 years since, soju was made by distilling traditional ferments, using grains — such as rice or millet — and a traditional fermentation starter called nuruk. Traditionally distilled using iron cauldrons and earthenware stills, soju made prior to the 20th century were typically finished anywhere between 40% to 60% ABV. 

How The Green Bottle Took Over

To understand how production methods of soju changed so drastically in the 20th century, we must acknowledge the impacts of war, famine, occupation and industrialization. Beginning with Japan’s annexation of Korea in 1910, Korean sool methodologies were under threat as a result of cultural oppression. Bans on homebrewing and the outright ban of soju production and consumption resulted in the abandonment of established breweries and distilleries all over Korea. Korean producers were then forced to make the switch to sake and shochu production that incorporated the Japanese use of koji and yeast instead of Korean nuruk. During this time, an immeasurable amount of sool and soju recipes, methodologies, and multi-generational tradition was forgotten. 

Despite the pressures of occupation, some of Korea’s sool producers were able to endure until Korea’s liberation in 1945, but by then the products were unrecognizable. Famine and resulting rice shortages had made it nearly impossible to continue to produce sool with rice, and with the Grain Management Act of 1965, producers had to abandon rice altogether. As a result, they substituted their production with the cheapest ingredients possible - wheat, tapioca, barley, sweet potato, or potatoes - to name a few.  These ingredients could still be fermented into alcohols finishing around 30% ABV but were undrinkable and sweeteners were added. 

Despite the reduction in quality, producers soon realized they had hit the jackpot, and much of the traditional methods were abandoned, even once the rice ban was lifted in 1999. From that point on, with the help of government consolidation of distilleries and monopolization of the soju industry in the 1970’s, the green bottle soju was made into the recognizable symbol that it is today. 

It may be an iconic bottle but it is representative of a complicated and capricious history. Since the first production of green bottle soju, producers have changed the formula to appeal to a wider audience by diluting it down to 13% ABV in some cases or flavoring with fruit extracts. Further, Korean laws aren’t strict about the labeling of soju, which means producers can call their product soju even if it contains tapioca starch and cassava and no nuruk whatsoever. Though green bottle soju still reigns, traditionally distilled craft soju is making a swift comeback in Korea and abroad. Now, many producers are seeing a renewed interest and appreciation for the spirit’s singular taste.

A Return to Traditionally Made Soju

As you can see, the legacy of traditionally made soju precedes us. That’s why we are very pleased to introduce our very first distillate, Hana Soju 60, a traditionally made soju carefully crafted from organically grown rice, nuruk and time in partnership with Matchbook Distilling Co.

The origin story for Hana Soju 60 goes back to when our founder Alice and Leslie Merinoff of Matchbook Distillation Co. first met in 2021 and connected over creating niche and unconventional wines and spirits. As Alice and Leslie continued learning from each other, they kept coming back to the idea of making a soju. Finally, after two years, they got together in February 2023 to distill Hana Soju 60. 

Everyone has a story about soju. Alice’s first taste of traditionally made soju was back in 2015 by way of the late master distiller Kim Taek-sang. At 72.6% ABV, Samhae Soju was rich, complex, and bold and unlike anything else she had tasted. His soju sparked this unshakable desire to learn more about traditional soju production. Leslie’s journey to soju came after diving into the world of koji fermentations and shochu production. She had tried a number of soju and wondered if she could change the balance of the flavors, such as pulling the floral and fruity flavors up. So when we floated the idea for a collaborative distillate, it was a natural fit. 

This collaboration was so much more than anyone imagined. Throughout the run, Alice and Leslie tasted the distillate at least a hundred times – each cut tasting more vibrant, nuanced, and distinct than the last. At the beginning, the soju was bright and citrusy. There were moments where the soju tasted of deep grain and wet earth. Later, floral notes became prominent like rose geranium, magnolia, and lily of the valley. These distinctions ultimately informed the decision to not dilute the final product so that any person pouring from a bottle of Hana Soju 60 will taste this distillate as we tasted it, straight off the still, in its pure and natural form. We then let the soju rest in glass for 10 months before finally bottling it in November of 2023. Ultimately, the quality and beauty of ingredients — organically grown rice, nuruk, and water — guided Hana Soju 60’s final being.

All About Hana Soju 60

Hana Soju 60 will be officially available starting December 16, 2023. If you’re in the New York area, we’ll begin serving Hana Soju 60 in our Tasting Room by the oz alongside an anju pairing! Our first anju pairing, a soy braised daikon, will enhance the florality and umami of the soju, making it a blissful combination. At home, we recommend tasting the traditional soju straight or on a rock, and definitely with some anju or salty snacks.

While we won’t be selling Hana Soju 60 by the bottle in the Tasting Room, you’ll be able to purchase it online through Matchbook Distillation Co.’s website starting in January as well as our retail partners such as, Bin Bin Sake, Irving Bottle, Leon & Son Wine and Spirits, and Union Square Wines. 

Matchbook Distilling's Leslie Merinoff Kwasnieski and Hana Magolli’s Alice Jun.

Hana Soju 60 is a great addition to our line up of fermented sool as it continues to push people’s understanding of what sool is. It’s only a contemporary idea that soju must be neutral and 15-25% ABV. A return to craft distilled soju is a return to tradition, and we’re excited to be a part of this movement.

Be the first ones to try it with us on December 16 by joining the Soju Seminar & Tasting where Alice and Leslie will guide us through a tasting and speak more on how the soju was made. Ticket holders will also have first access to purchase bottles of Hana Soju 60.

Originally Published December 14, 2023